Switch control from Möllehem part: 3 (programming part 1)

Time for the programming trials to comes. I have placed allot of thoughts how to create this post in a structured way but it´s not entirely simple. But I will do my best I hope you will follow the simpleness of this system.

I will create a simple example that is based of my setup.
Short description of the setup:

Setup 

Step 1: Download Android device that speaks with the electronics (decoders).
Here is a link to the site at Google play:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bluetoothtest
Install it and your good to go.

Step 2: Connect the Android device to the electronics.
Connect power to the Loconet terminator.
The blue diode should blink rapidly on the Smart phone interface box

Step 3:
Search for blue tooth devices on your andriod device and you will find the Loconet "xx"
Connect and write in code 1234
Open MGP application previously installed. Now you should see all the different decoders that is connected to your Loconet grid.

Step 4: Name all the different decoders. (good start)
Open each decoder and rename them to a logical name based on your layout

First programming. Simple servo switch command from panel buttons

Step 1: Note the SV nr on the Servo decoder and the position 1-5 of the intended servo. This will be the adress for the servo.

Step 2: Open the Panel decoder
Expand the input page

Go to the correct button based on which input is placed on the panel decoder board.
State if it´s a push button or switch button. If push button use "toggel" option.
Add the servo adress that should be trigged by the push button. The servo adress is the servo decoder adress for the first servo and then +1 for each servo connected to that decoder. For instance I want to trigger servo 3 on servo decoder with adress 40 would give me the servo adress 42 (40+2).

Step 3: Adjust Servo end points and direction to suite the implementation
Open Servo decoder
Find the servo and adjust en angle of the end points, easy to live and trim until no more stalling from the servos. It´s also possible to change speed and direction of of servo. This important to get the correct closed or throw message on the Loconet from the servo decoder.

This was all for the initial programing. With this easy setup can you control servos with simple push buttons. Next time will I show more of the LED programing and some more advanced functions.

Switch control from Möllehem part: 2

Now I received all the parts to continue my switch control panel so here is part 2 in the series.
I will use following schematics for this simple panel:

I have test mounted them on the universal circuit board. This is to easily solder the components and draw the wires to the panel decoder. On top of the circuit board will I mount a Plexi glass board with the holes drilled for the buttons, LED´s and paint the routing on according to the schematics above.

Here is the first test mount:

Next step solder the push buttons and the led´s. Connect the push buttons to the common 0V that comes from the panel decoder and the output goes back to the panel decoder at the correct input position 1-16. It´s important to be meticulous and write down which button is connected to which input position because each push button will get an address and these will be used for the programming later.

Panel decoder

LED driver for 12 LED´s

The LED´s are drive from a separate LED driver board that will be connected to the panel decoder. Each LED driver board can operate up to 12 LED´s. There is a 16pin flat cable that needs to be split and soldered to the correct LED.

I have soldered the first 3 buttons and LED´s to the circuit board. Also mounted all the circuit boards on an very temporary holder to start programing and adjusting the servos.

With my small temporary board and turnout mount will I try the programming of panel decoder, led driver and servo decoder. But more about that in my next post.

Switch control from Möllehem part: 1

Hello all

This is the first post of a series about my switch panel that I will be building for my N scale track.
I will mainly use products from Möllehems gårds produkter (MGP) wich is a Swedish company that have created a really smart way to control the switches, signals and other accessories on the track.

Sins this is the first time I build a model railway track will I try to keep it fairly simple and lean. But I also want to learn for future projects. So my track is a simple oval with some side rails for cargo. Here is the track plan:

For this will I build a control panel that will control all the switches with push buttons and also indicate the position of the switch. Here is an illustration of the swith panel and the naming of the different buttons.

MGP products use standard servos to through the switch. I like this concept because it´s easy, cheap and simple to replace a damage servo. They also produce a bracket and a arm to through the switch. But I will comeback to the physical installation in later blog posts.
To control the servos do they use a servo decoder that control up to 5 servos and 5 frogs. This decoder can be a stand alone unit but I will use it in conjunction with their panel decoder sins I will use 6 servos in total and might add one or two more for moving other things like road crossings, cranes etc. I also want the panel because I can add led indicators of the position of the switch.

To activate the switches will I use a push buttons that will connect to the panel decoder which will send the information forward on the loconet buss. Then will the servo decoder pick up the command will it through the switch or switches depending on the coding that have been done. But I will comeback to that in a later blog post also.

So I think we stop here for now and continue when I have done some more progress.
I also have some new projects for Flames of War that take my precious hobby time.

Infinity Operation Ice-storm PanOcean models

Hello All

I though that I should show you what I finally did with my operation icestorm models. I painted the PanOcean models and sold them because there where no good response from my local club. Anyway here is what I did and the result.

I have also started painting the PanOcean troops from the box. I think these are one of the cleaner and most detail metal figures have have seen. They fitted together perfect and was not that hard to assemble. The only tricky parts where the antennas on the armoured troops. I pinned the antennas so they would be easier to mount but they where still tricky. But I think it was worth the work, the models look stunning especially with the antennas.

Next step was to move the to the airbrush. I will paint them in a traditional colour scheme (Blue) sins it will be the base force for my coming PanOcean force. I started with the base layer of black primer and then continued with grey to get the first shadow effect.
Next step is to get the blue colour painted they where layered with airbrush. I used Vallejo´s new model airbrush colour series. I really like the Vallejo paints and they have a nice level of coverage.

Next step was to hand pain the all cloth, I used the studio painted models as a reference. They models are so good moulded and crafted that it was an easy task to get a good contrast but still look good in close inspection.

Here is the final result.

First Guildball team ready

As the heading is saying, I have painted my first Guild ball team. My first team was the masons because they have to most appealing mascot Marbels that is some kind of gorilla or monkey. I also chose them because of their playing style. They are semi defensive but can score goals to. Their main strength is the combos between their players and you keep your team tight to benefit from this.

I have played two practices game on a small pitch and I like the behavior of the masoners and I really like Guild ball. It's a fresh new game that have allot of intensity and spectacular plays and happenings during a game. Also a big benefit is the short time it takes to play one ordinary game takes around 1,5 hours. So there is no problem to squeeze in two games in one night. 

I will comeback with more information and posts about Guild ball as a progress. So this is it for today. Next team on the painting table is the alchemists which are very different from the masoners. 

Don't forget the ball.

N scale weathering test

I have been wanting to use my skills from the miniature painting on my trains. So I tried a simple weathering on one of my cargo wagons. This one is a n scale (1:160) tarpaulin coverd wagon from fleischmann. 

This is how I did it.

Step 1: demount bogies and wheels 

Step 2: satin varnish with air brush on wagon and bogies 

Step 3: enamel wash from MIG products thinned with correct solvent. you can use any dark tone. I used for nato vehicles its a dark green grey color. Cover the whole wagon with a light cover.

Step 4: after it dried for 10-15min. Take same thinner/solvent and use a brush to remove the enmal wash where don't want it. Use the brush strokes to create a running lines with the wash.

Step 5: let it dry over night 

Step 6: air brush thin coat of light brown/beige color to mimic light dust on the lower part of the wagon and on the bogies. Keep the coating very light. It's very hard to fixit if the coating is too heavy.

Step 7: air brush Matt acrylic varnish and assemble the wagon again.

These step did not take more than 30min for this tarpaulin cargo wagon in N scale.

Here are some pictures for comparison to my unweatherd cargo wagon from fleischmann.

//Torbjörn 

 

New hobby again! Model trains.

Hello again blog readers. It's been too long since last post. As usual will I try to improve. During the absence have I still been busy with playing and painting models. I will make a separate post about the different painting projects. 

Now let's talk about my latest and greatest hobby, model trains. Sins I like both the models and the landscaping have I choose N-scale 1:160 or 10mm. This is a good compromise I can still run digital trains (multiple trains on one track) and create a nice large landscape without using the complete house for the tracks. The only drawback is tha scale is not as widespread as H0 scale. 

I have already built my first track and have several test run. The track is taken down again for redesign. At the same time have a start building my first FREMO  N-F1 module. I think I will write most about my modules sins this is the most public part of the hobby. 

So far have I created the frame according to the modulsyd pdf and created legs and layed the track. I have used a normal M8 screw with a punch in nut for the adjustable foot. The legs is only slide in to pockets on the frame and kept their with a strong magnet. This system seems to work good. But I have not tried it live with other modules. Here are some pictures of the progress. 

I will try to keep you posted about the progress. I will also show you the pictures of my other painted models in another post.